For mind, body and soul, this volcanic island offers sheer bliss. Come to learn about the UNESCO-protected rice paddies, try your hand at every kind of watersport, or even for a spiritual awakening, says our insider, Kathryn Romeyn.
Arriving on the salty waves, first impressions of Bali are as dynamic as they come. Leisure yachts sail by and fishing boats cast their nets as a virginal green island of mangroves and sea turtles unfolds to one side and, on the other, a playground of golden sand and curls of water upon which revelers jet-ski, paraglide, and flyboard. Ahead, a parade of active volcanoes stands to attention, the famous rice terraces fed by crystalline waters flowing from the mountaintops hidden in the folds of land, and one of the world’s tallest statues, the Garuda Wisnu Kencana eagle, silhouettes against the sky. It’s a pretty picture that bears the influence of all those who have shaped it over thousands of years, from the original inhabitants, the Bali Mula, to the Indian traders who brought Hinduism (the dominant religion, hence the thousands of temples), the Portuguese, the Dutch, and today’s proud Balinese community.
In contrast, Benoa, Bali’s port, where you’ll touch land, isn’t particularly noteworthy on this island of countless captivating corners, though its central location is useful. You will, at least, get an immediate taste of this Indonesian province’s singular colorful culture when you step off your ship; troupes of Balinese dancers adorned with richly ornamented gold gelungan headdresses, gilded jewelry, and fine saffron-hued belted cloths, welcome arrivals by performing to the sounds of the drums, gongs, strings and flutes of a traditional gamelan ensemble.
Inside the terminal, you’ll find all the modern necessities, such as a currency exchange and tourist information center, as well as the opportunity to browse and purchase art and crafts or enjoy an on-the-spot Balinese massage. Although it was built in 1924, Benoa Port has only recently been prioritized by the Indonesian government to become a robust port of call for large cruise liners, so upgrades are ongoing.
What to see in Bali
Bali is a place that simultaneously feels larger than life yet intimate. A couple of hours will only allow a glimpse of what that means, but it’s a worthwhile endeavor. Take the toll road southwest to Jimbaran Bay (7 miles, 20-25 minutes) to sample smoked Balinese pork arancini and Jimbaran-style grilled snapper with a butterfly pea flower slushie at Sundara, followed by a quick dip in the sand-bottomed ocean – or large beachside pool – steps from your table. Also close by is Nusa Dua Beach (8 miles, 22 minutes), with its many restaurants, hotels, and clean and beautiful beaches, as well as Museum Pasifika, which focuses on Asian-Pacific art. Rent a bicycle at nearby Sanur (6 miles, 30 minutes) and ride along the boardwalk behind the beach, which stretches for more than four miles.
At laid-back Serangan, the tiny island-off-an-island you will have passed on the ship on arrival (4 miles, 12-15 minutes), you’ll find the government-run Turtle Conservation and Education Center. For an optional donation, a guide will take you to see three types of critically endangered and vulnerable sea turtles currently being rehabilitated from suffering shark bites, getting tangled in fishing nets, and being traded on the black market. At the nearby beach, hop in a motorboat called a jukung and glide through the mangroves, or stay onshore and peruse the souvenirs sold by entrepreneurial Balinese women, who also offer shoulder massages and cold whole coconuts to drink from.
A scenic helicopter journey is the one guaranteed traffic-free way to take in all the island. SGi Air Bali (2 miles, 5 minutes) offers 18- and 24-minute whirls over the top cultural sites, including the Garuda Wisnu Kencana statue and ancient Tanah Lot sea temple, as well as longer jaunts over volcanoes, lakes, offshore islands, and the UNESCO-listed rice terraces.
With a few more precious hours to play with, plan ahead to squeeze in some of the island’s signature sights. A rich marine environment is one of these, and it’s possible to engage with it in an imaginative and sustainable way at a class in crafting coral at Kevala Ceramics (5 miles, 15 minutes). During the two-hour session, you will create a free-form coral propagation device from clay, which will be fired and later planted by marine biologists, along with coral fragments, to help rebuild some of the degraded Sanur reef. Pick up one of the tactile pieces on sale here as a memento and enjoy a cup of locally roasted Indonesian coffee at cheerful Café Bloom Bali. On your outward or return journey to this area, take time to swing by Cemara Beach – it’s a lovely quiet spot.
Alternatively, head southwest to the captivating SAKA Museum (9 miles, 25-30 minutes), named for the island’s lunisolar calendar. With a soaring pitched roof, its bold contemporary architecture hints at the distinct Balinese Hinduist culture that dominates this island, which is also examined by the collections within. Find out about the all-important 11th-century subak irrigation system that feeds the rice terraces – listed by UNESCO as a World Heritage Site – that just the mention of Bali conjures up in the mind’s eye. Upstairs, you’ll find an awe-inspiring collection of gigantic and startlingly demonic ogoh-ogoh sculptures, which were used to scare away evil spirits during festivals before the annual silent day of Nyepi.
Afterward, sample delicious yet humble smoky flavors of the archipelago at nearby Riung Rasa Indonesian Backyard BBQ, or enjoy both tastes and sights of the sea at Koral Restaurant in Nusa Dua (9 miles, 25 minutes). This unusual fine-dining establishment is set in an aquarium, and the exquisitely presented courses are accompanied by a ballet of manta rays and other fish performed over and around the tunnel-shaped dining space. Also in Nusa Dua is the Museum Pasifika. Its impressive permanent collections include intricate Balinese paintings and artefacts alongside works from around the Asia-Pacific region. Batik-making and Balinese dance classes are also possible to take part in here.
Dive deeper, quite literally, into Bali’s bejeweled seas. And waste no time in doing so by stepping aboard a speedboat from Uluwatu Surf Charter, which will pick you up at Benoa. Spend half a day zooming around the dreamiest hard-to-reach beaches on Nusa Penida or Nusa Lembongan (two islands that are technically part of Bali), as well as spots such as Manta Point, where you can snorkel amid the giant rays as their graceful wings are cleaned by reef fish.
On land, take the 17-mile journey northwest to Tabanan (beware: it could take 75 to 90 minutes each way depending on traffic) to ride one of the rehabilitated rescue horses at the ethical operation Salty Cowboy and trek amid a gleaming emerald expanse of rice paddies and across the black sands of Kedungu Beach. While you’re in the area, see one of the island’s iconic temples, Tanah Lot. Visit the sacred snake in its cave at the postcard-famous holy place before receiving a quick blessing, during which holy water and grains of rice are pressed against your forehead
On the west coast, the beach club Potato Head (10 miles, 45 minutes) isn’t just a place to relax by the sea, it’s also dedicated to promoting positive change through its events and workshops. Among the classes you might be tempted to sign up for is Akademi Traditional Jamu Making, all about the art of making local health remedies. Dine steps away at Kaum, which serves flavorful indigenous fare familiar on menus throughout the archipelago, such as ikan bakar dabu dabu, spicy grilled fish from North Sulawesi. Or, a couple of miles southeast, try FED, the buzzy kitchen of an experimental young Balinese chef who uses local ingredients in tastebud-tingling ways on his ever-changing menus – think fresh coral trout with finger lime topped with fermented cermai berry snow.
The true depth of Bali’s beauty unfolds with more time to roam further afield. Yet due to ever-increasing traffic, it could prove difficult in just a day to reach famous attractions such as the volcano Mount Batur, West Bali National Park, and the dolphins of Lovina. Crystal’s shore excursions come into their own here. But if you’re determined to explore independently, you could head north to imbibe the Balinese spirit at Ubud – just beware, although it’s only 20 miles from the port, the round-trip journey could take up to three hours. Allow time to make the journey part of the experience, with stops at the Tegenungan waterfall, to feel the spray of the chilled mountain water, or the 11th-century Pura Puseh Desa Batuan temple, to admire its elaborate carvings.
At Ubud, take an easy stroll along the Campuhan Ridge Walk, a peaceful nature trail that runs for a mile or so, dropping away at both sides to gracefully terracing rice fields and dense jungle. Inspect Bali’s remarkable 9th-century subak irrigation system at the Tegallalang Rice Terraces – bring a hiking pole to help navigate the steep and undulating ground. Or, to the east of Ubud, capture clear, wide views of Bali’s highest and most sacred volcano, Mount Agung, while rice paddy trekking in Sidemen. When you need to retreat from the heat, try a fresh-pressed mango or watermelon juice at a warung, one of the popular open-air roadside eateries.
Refresh the mind as well as the body at Tirta Empul in Tampaksiring, one of Bali’s best-known Hindu water temples, dedicated to Vishnu, god of water. It is built on the site of a spring that is regarded as sacred and the diamond-clear waters that spout from its extravagantly carved fountains are used for Melakut ceremonies, where water is used as part of a ritual to cleanse the body, mind and spirit of participants. Experience an extended version of this tradition, which unfolds over a couple of hours, 12 miles north of Ubud at Pura Taman Pecampuhan Sala, set at the confluence of two rivers. Flitting butterflies and swirling incense smoke add to the quintessential Balinese atmosphere.
Witness the fiery sun melt into the turquoise Indian Ocean as night begins to fall on the southwestern tip of the island at Uluwatu (15 miles, 50-90 minutes). Marvel at the surfers getting barreled in giant green waves as you sip cocktails that match the colors of the sky at the classic cliffside bar Single Fin. For quieter contemplation, buy – or even rent – a sarong and spend the late-afternoon wandering the 11th-century Pura Luhur Uluwatu, a legendary Hindu temple atop 230-foot limestone cliffs. Feel the percussive hum of chants during the multi-sensory kecak fire dance before continuing onward for dinner and drinks.
There are many ways to spend a tasty, atmospheric evening. Consider Bali-sourced modern Japanese izakaya eats in romantic Yuki Uluwatu and find a mashup of Italian tradition with local ingredients in a glitzy setting at Il Ristorante - Niko Romito. You’re pretty much assured magic – this is Bali, after all.
*All timings are by car, except where otherwise stated.
How to spend an evening
Witness the fiery sun melt into the turquoise Indian Ocean as night begins to fall on the southwestern tip of the island at Uluwatu (15 miles, 50-90 minutes). Marvel at the surfers getting barreled in giant green waves as you sip cocktails that match the colors of the sky at the classic cliffside bar Single Fin. For quieter contemplation, buy – or even rent – a sarong and spend the late-afternoon wandering the 11th-century Pura Luhur Uluwatu, a legendary Hindu temple atop 230-foot limestone cliffs. Feel the percussive hum of chants during the multi-sensory kecak fire dance before continuing onward for dinner and drinks.
There are many ways to spend a tasty, atmospheric evening. Consider Bali-sourced modern Japanese izakaya eats in romantic Yuki Uluwatu and find a mashup of Italian tradition with local ingredients in a glitzy setting at Il Ristorante - Niko Romito. You’re pretty much assured magic – this is Bali, after all.
*All timings are by car, except where otherwise stated.
How to get around
Crystal runs shuttle buses to the nearest town or city on many of its cruises. When onboard, check departure points and times in your copy of our daily bulletin, Reflections.
Bali is not a pedestrian-friendly destination, nor one with public transportation, making taxis and ride-shares essential means of transportation. To book a taxi, please inquire at the Concierge desk onboard. Alternatively, book with an established taxi company at the official counters in the main terminal building before following their directions to the taxi outside. Local drivers often crowd around the exit and charge inflated fares, so if you do opt for this quicker option, negotiate and agree on a fixed fare before getting in the vehicle.
I Gusti Ngurah Rai International Airport: 15-20 minutes drive (4.5 miles*).
There is nowhere of note to go on foot direct from the ship, unless stretching your legs on solid ground, with a dash of local color, is all you’re after. For that, walk straight west and in less than 10 minutes (0.5 miles) you will see dozens of brightly painted fishing boats bobbing on their anchors. A 10-minute walk south will take you to Black Stone Yacht Club, a casual restaurant by the marina with a swimming pool. It is inadvisable to walk off the peninsula on which the harbor sits; there are no sidewalks and the busy road has heavy traffic.
Generally, Bali presents challenges to travelers with mobility issues. Balinese sidewalks are typically narrow and uneven, and many shops and restaurants have steps but no ramp. Steps are universally present at temples, however some can still be enjoyed, such as the views of Pura Luhur Uluwatu (15 miles, 50-90 minutes) from the long path that hugs the top of the temple complex’s sheer cliffside. The beach areas of Sanur and Nusa Dua are accessible, especially where there are major resorts. In Sanur (6 miles, 20 minutes), both Naughty Nuri’s, a famous choice for deliciously sticky pork ribs, and Fisherman’s Club, serving fresh seafood on the sand, are both are accessible. In Nusa Dua (8 miles, 25 minutes), The St. Regis, The Laguna, and The Ritz-Carlton hotels offer plentiful dining and drinking options with good accessibility and eye-catching panoramas.
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